Wonderful Wool Fabric

Wool fabric has an almost comfort food sense about it. When I think of wool fabric, I feel cozy and warm.

Wool can keep us dry and warm in the winter and cool in the summer. It is resistant to mold and mildew and is very durable for a long life of wearing.

Wool has been improved on over time, to eliminate the scratchy feel it can be known for, and it is blended with other fibers to give different looks and feel. Wool still carries the practical and durable properties it has over the ages. It remains one of my favorite fabrics to work with.

*Mccalls Sewing Patterns *Coco Chanel Style Jacket*

Wool Boucle

Preshrink wool boucle, by holding a steam iron just above the fabric. Use the "with nap" layout, if your fabric is plaid.

Use sharp scissors and mark your pieces with tailor tacks. You can use silk, cotton, or polyester thread and 80/12 machine needle.A longer stitch length of 2.5mm to 3.0 mm is best to use for this wool fabric and use a walking foot.

Serge your seam allowances or use a zig zag stich if you do not have a serger.

Wool Crepe

Pre shrink wool crepe at the dry cleaners. Be sure to do this, as wool crepe will shrink the first time you have your finished garment dry cleaned. The only other alternative is to wash in the gentle cycle with special wool soap, called Eucalan. You can purchase this soap online at

www.eucalan.com Machine dry on low heat. Mark with tailor tacks and sew using cotton, silk or polyester thread. Use a 80/12, machine needle and a standard 2.5mm stitch length. Use a staight stich presser foot.

Press with iron on the wool setting with steam. Let wool crepe fabric dry before handling it too much. It will distort as you work with it if you do not.

Wool Gauze:

Wool gauze is lovely for flowing skirts and tops. Wool gauze is best for any type of loose fitting garments. Multi layers are sometimes needed, as it is sheer.

When you think of wool fabric and may not think of sheer, but that is the wonderful aspect of any fibre. They can be spun into so many weights and thickness.

Wool gauze is not very stable so it is a good idea to secure stress seams such as crotch areas and armholes and neck areas with twill tape. Pre shrink wool gauze with a steam iron and dry-clean the finished garment. Use a “without nap” layout, found in the pattern directions. Mark with tailor chalk.

If you use interfacing, use organza, it is stiff but transparent, so you will not risk the interfacing showing through the wool gauze. You can use cotton or polyester thread

Straight stitch presser foot is all that is needed.

Use a 70/10 machine needle.

French seams work the best for seam finishing. You can overlock the seams on any guaze fabric, but I find the seams stretch slightly and French seams give a cleaner seam finish. To hem wool gauze, I recommend a rolled hem with either a serger, or a regular sewing machine

Wool Jersey:

Wool jersey is very luxurious wool fabric. It drapes and feels wonderful and wrinkles are minimal.

Best used for garments that flow, for example wrapped tops and dresses. If you do make pants out of wool jersey, use twill tape in the crotch area to reinforce the seam.

Here are three examples of Butterick patterns that are suitable for wool jersey fabric.

Cotton polyester wrapped, polyester or silk thread
can be used, with a 75/11 stretch machine needle.
Use a straight stitch presser foot and a tiny zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch, if you have it on your machine. Use a straight stitch, on horizontal seams and top stitching details.

Do you want to know more about sewing other fabrics? Leave Wool Fabrics and click here.