Understanding Sewing Patterns

Sewing Pattern Delight by sewfashionable on Polyvore

Sewing patterns can be a mystery when you are first learning to sew. I hope to resolve some, if not all, the mystery for you. Starting with where to buy patterns, how to buy pattern and so on.

Where To Find Sewing Patterns

Sewing patterns are easy to find. Your local fabric store will have catalogs featuring the various pattern companies.

You can also shop on line for independent pattern companies as well as the large commercial pattern companies .

There are almost endless options for sewing patterns.

An example of an online pattern store is You Can Make This

You Can Make This website offers a wonderful variety for crafts and children apparel and the patterns are easily down loaded, so you don't pay shipping and handling or wait for your pattern.

The big pattern companies such as Butterick, McCalls, Simplicity to name a few, have user friendly, informative websites, that offers all the categories of patterns available.

I like to go online to see what sewing patterns are coming for the new seasons. Often the fabric stores have not yet received their newest catalogs and shipments of the most updated patterns for sewing styles, which the pattern companies have designed. Going online and having a look to see what is coming to your local fabric supply stores is fun and gives a look at the newest fashions, decor, and craft patterns, coming ahead of time.

Click each link to see patterns for sewing for some of the major pattern companies.

McCalls, Butterick,Vogue, and Kwik Sew patterns.
Simplicity and New Look, and Burda Patterns Websites
Burda patterns for sewing.
Jalie Websites
Plus Size Patterns

Vintage Patterns

If vintage fashion is your thing. There are many sites that help you find vintage patterns.

• Vintage Stitching
  Buy authentic original vintage sewing patterns from the 1940's, 1950's, 1960's, 1970's. We carry vintage patterns from all the major manufacturers. Worldwide shipping

Amazon

Simplicity

Vogue

Drafting Your Own Patterns

Another option for sewing patterns would be to make your own. You can learn "how to" Pattern Construction on your own time, in your own space, at your own pace. This method allows you to learn to draft your own patterns. There are plenty of books that can show your how to do this.

The Pattern companies

McCalls, Butterick,Vogue, and Kwik Sew sewing patterns.
Simplicity and New Look, and Burda Patterns Websites
Burda patterns .
Jalie Websites
Plus Size Patterns

Much like the retail store chains that have one corporate owner, some pattern companies are the same. McCall’s Pattern company produces Vogue and Butterick patterns for sewing. New Look patterns are produced by The Simplicity Pattern Company.

The Burda Pattern Company is European and offers edgy European styles.

Burda is now being offered by Simplicity Patterns. You can purchase Burda Patterns right from Simplicity website.

Vogue sewing patterns tend to be more expensive, but they offer designer fashions as apposed to Butterick and McCall’s that offer main stream, North American styles of fashion.

Simplicity, New Look, and Kwik Sew are wonderful patterns for sewing basic styles in addition, if you are first learning to sew, these patterns are great to start out. However, you will find easy to sew fashions in all the pattern labels.

One more pattern company I would like to mention is Jalie Patterns. This is a smaller pattern company, and their patterns are a little harder to find, however I like the fashions they offer and I have found the fit of the completed garment is accurate to the pattern cover photo. You can also find stretch knit patterns and out door apparel that are not always available from other pattern companies.

How To Choose A Sewing Pattern

First Thing...You need your measurements

• Waistline : It is easier to find your natural waistline if you loosely tie a string around your middle and let the string fall into place. This is where you will measure for the waist. Leave the string in place, for when you measure the hips.

• Hips: The fullest part of your hips is usually 7" to 9" inches or 18 to 23 cm below the waist, so use the string as a reference.

• Fullest bust area: Put the tape measure across the widest part of your back and under your arms and around the fullest part of the bust.

• Back Waist Length: Place the tape measure on the bone at the base of the neck in addition, measure to the string at the waistline.
• Height: Measure standing against a wall without your shoes. With a flat instrument such as a ruler, indicate the top of your head and place a mark on the wall. Measure from the mark to the floor.

Now that you have your measurements, you can look through pattern catalogs at your local fabric store or go online. I recommend going onto the websites of some of the major pattern companies to start looking for patterns to sew, especially if you live in a more remote area.

• Depending on your skill level, choose a pattern for sewing, that is equal to your skill level. Some of the pattern companies, list the difficulty level on the front of the envelope.
• I would like to mention a website I refer to often, for information and tips, as well as a unique page that lets you see what a garment will look like and details about the pattern.

The photos and information is submitted by sewers of all levels. You simply click the pattern review link and type in the pattern company and pattern number and 95% of the time some one has already made the garment for you to see.

You can become a member and this will allow you to add your own reviews of patterns and a lot more or you can just view what others have done. Either way it is worth checking out PatternReview.com

The Pattern Front & Back

• The pattern envelope is full of information that you will need. At first glance, it looks complicated, if you do not know what to look for on the front and back covers. Believe me they list everything to help you choose the right pattern and the right fabric and notions.
• Check to see if the garment or project has buttons, zippers, or pleats etc. If you are just starting out I would choose something simpler. You will only end up being frustrated in addition, you could risk not finishing your project if you find it too difficult.
• Also, choose a pattern for sewing that is right for your body type. It does not matter if you are slim or short or tall or what your shape is, there are some styles that will not look right on you. So take the time to look and choose wisely.

I once made the mistake of buying a pattern style that would have looked great on a women that is 5' 10" and slim. I am slim but I am 5'3" and this long flowing gown looked terrible on me. In this case I have the sewing experience to take the dress apart and change the dress to suit me. I made the dress and it turned out great, but I was in a time crunch and this did not help.

So even someone that has been sewing for many years, should take the time and choose a style that is right for them.

When I am choosing a style, I prefer (although not necessary)to see a photo of the completed garment on the cover of the envelope. It gives a better idea of how the garment will fit and hang.

The front cover gives multiple views so you can see how many options the garment/s has to offer. It may show trim alternatives, variations of length, fabric choices and degrees of difficulty.

• Before you purchase your pattern be sure to check the size. In some cases the pattern will offer multiple sizes within the pattern. This means the pattern offers you cutting lines for all sizes listed. In any case, be sure you have the right size because patterns are not returnable.
• The photo above shows the flap of the pattern envelope. You can see the measurements that correlate with the pattern sizes available.
  

Over view of the front cover:

• Multiple views showing style and fabric variations.
• Pattern company name and style number.
• Indication of difficulty.
• Size indication, showing multiple sizes.

On the back cover

On the back cover you will find the style number repeated as on the front.

The sewing pattern you choose, will give an over view of the style, fit and what is involved in constructing the garment.

• There is a body measurements and size chart.
  
• Do not be alarmed when you see you are now a size 12 on the chart, but you wear a size 4 in ready to wear clothing. The sizes for sewing patterns are larger.
  
• So don't buy a sewing pattern based on the size you wear in retail clothing. The size of pattern you buy, should reflect, what your measurements are and the size indicated on the pattern chart.
• Something else to consider, do not buy your pattern based on the finished garment measurements. The finished garment measurement allow for the ease or movement of the finished garment. If you make a garment and it has more ease or is more loose than you would like then you alter the garment in the construction process. So again, buy the size you need based on your body measurements and the sizes given on the pattern size chart.
• Some times you will find that your top measurements are one size and hip measurement is another. This is when multi size sewing patterns, come in handy. You can alter the pattern to fit your body measurement quite easily.

Suggested Fabrics Box: This indicates which fabrics are best suited for this style of garment. It is a general guide line, but when your starting out, I would suggest sticking to the suggestions listed. Finished garment measurements are listed to show finished length and width.

Over view of the back cover:

• Style number.
• Garment description.
• Body measurement chart.
• Suggested fabrics.
• Finished garment measurements.
• What notions are necessary.
• Number of pieces given and view of garment back.
  
  

Fabric Calculations section, tells you how much fabric (and or notions and lining if needed) you will need for the garment view and size you are making. It will show you how much fabric you need depending on how wide the fabric is on the bolt.

It is not a hard and fast rule, but fabric generally comes from the factories as 45" (115cm) or 60"(150cm) so the pattern for sewing your project will list the fabric needed according to these two widths. So look for the size you have decided on a follow the chart down to the appropriate fabric suggested for that garment.

At the bottom of the pattern back, you can see how many pieces are in the envelope and a view of the garment to see details.

The number of pieces in the pattern is a good indicator for how difficult the construction will be.

Inside The Sewing Pattern Envelope

You will find the pattern pieces neatly folded, as well as the instructions that give you a step by step guide to constructing your project or garment.

Open the the instruction sheet and you will see information on, cutting out the pattern for sewing, seam allowances, number of pieces for each view. They have listed tips for, fabric preparation seam finishing, pattern markings, and seam allowances.

Here you can see the pattern gives you what the marking symbols mean on the pattern pieces. Once you open your pattern pieces, you will see symbols that may be confusing. Refer to the instructions to clarify any of these.

Here the photo shows each piece required to make this garment. In this case, all the pieces will be needed. However, with a pattern that has multiple views or styles available, you would refer to this to determine which pieces you need for which style you will sew. You can determine which size you will need to cut out based on the measurements you have taken of your self or whom ever you are sewing for.

These photos offer information about cutting your fabric. Read these first before cutting out. This will help you to eliminate errors. Or at least keep them to a minimum.

Also, shown are cutting layouts. Look closely to see the correct layouts for the view/s you have chosen as well as your fabric width, there will be a layout according to the width of your fabric. Circle the layout that is correct for your sewing project you have chosen, this will help keep your focused on the right layout.

These two photos show the step by step instructions the pattern gives you.

Most patterns are clear and easy to understand. However, I like to read through the instructions before I start sewing, so I know what to expect and I understand what each step en tales.

• Please read carefully each section of the sewing pattern instruction sheet before cutting out the pattern pieces or laying out your sewing pattern on the fabric.

Sewing patterns for garments and projects, are readily available and chances are you will find something that appeals to you.

If you read over the pattern envelope and depending on what you choose to make, again, be sure that you have the correct size and read over the sewing pattern front and back before you buy.

A little bit of effort on your part can assure a smoother and more enjoyable result in the end. I hope this helps