Sewing With A SergerWhat is a Serger? This machine is also known as an overlock machine, (throughout this page, I will refer to it as both) first made it's way to the home sewer in the early 1980's. Previous to that, the overlock machine, was used one hundred years earlier, in 1880's for industrial use.
The overlock is not essential to have in your list of tools, however it is an important machine to have working side by side with your regular machine. This machine offers fast completion of seams and decorative stitches, as well as a more professional looking project. So if you can afford to add it to your team of tools it is highly recommended.
Like the
sewing machine,
there are many makes and models to choose from.
Unlike the sewing machine that uses a bobbin, the overlock has loopers that are fed by multiple cones of thread. The loopers along with the needle thread, create loops that encase the fabric edge to give it that finished professional look. There are machines that offer multiple stitches, for different effects.For example, two, three, four or five thread machines each have a different purpose. All machines indicate which stitches it is capable of achieving. The examples below, from left to right are, 3 stitch, 4 stitch, and 5 stitch overlock.
The serger also has a great feature for creating a decorative finish to your hems. It is call a rolled hem Another reason this serger feature is great, you can use it instead of trim.
Some of the newer sergers, have a built in rolled hem feature. You only have to change the serger foot to a rolled hem foot, to add the look to your garment. Below is a pfaff model of a rolled hem foot.
A new machine on the market, is the Cover Stitch machine. The cover pro machine is great for knit fabrics, the feed dogs are created to feed the fabric through with out pulling. The result is even, smooth seams. Some cover stitch options are built in to a serger machine or if you have acquired an older model serger, you can purchase a cover stitch machine separately. Below is an example of both the cover pro machine and the stitches it creates. There are other makes and models to choose from of course, this just happens to be the one I have. Here is a video tutorial of how the cover pro works.
Click this link to see more coverstitch info.
Serger Tips
1.)Practice using your scraps. The serger tension will be different with each project.Play with the machine using scrap fabrics and adjust the tension dials accordingly. Check your tension each time you start a new project, on a scrap piece of fabric you will be working with. Each machine is unique, so the tension will be different with each machine. Use your machine manual, it is a wonderfulguide line to help you get started. Have your manual handy at all times. I find I referto mine regularly if I am learning a new type of stitch or haven't use a particularfabric in a while. 2.)Let the machine do the work. You won't need to push or pull on the fabric,letthe fabric feed under the foot without lifting the presser foot. The feed dogs will grab the fabric and pull it through on it's own.Occasionally however, you will need to lift the presser foot, to put your fabricunder depending on the seam you are trying to achieve. 3.)If you purchase your serger machine from a dealer, they usually will include lessons.Take advantage of this, you may find it most helpful to have someone to answer your questions.If you have acquired your machine else where, look into lessons at a local dealer. Itmay or cost a few dollars because the machine wasn't purchased from that store, but itwould be well worth the money. 4.)Is your machine missing the Manual? If you acquired your machine from another source other than a dealer and you don't have the manual, check online. Most companies will have a PDF version of their manuals right on the websites. If finding a manual this way is proving to be a challenge, call a local dealer, they can order one in for you, for just a few dollars depending on whom you buy it from. 5.)As with any sewing machine, be careful not to sew over pins. Especially with the serger, as the damage to the knives and to the timing of the machine, would be costly. Usefew pins and watch for them as they approach the knives and be sure to remove themas you sew.An alternative for straight seams, would be to place the pins on the left of the presser foot. Three options for securing a thread tail are, A) Tie a knot before cutting the tail. B) Liquid sewing glue. Place a portion of glue near the seam andcut tail. C) Feed the tail through a large needle and then feed the needle through the seam without having to cut the tail.
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The average home version machine, sews 900 to 1500 stitches per minute, depending on the make and model.
This makes light work of all your projects.
