Seam Stitches and Seam Finishing

Seams and Seam finishing

The most common of the seam stitches is the straight stitch seam. However, there are many versions of this seam and many seams that are better suitedto different fabrics. I will be giving as many examples of different kinds of seam stitches and seam finishing that is best suited forthe fabrics you may be using.


Straight Stitch Seam

Your pattern will indicate what the seam allowance width should be. The seam width may vary depending on the construction point your working on. The standard seam allowance for commercial patterns is 5/8" and this is what I will be using in all the examples.

Using your straight stitch presser foot , sew a straight line, 5/8" in from the edge. Press open with a steam iron. You can really only get away with not finishing a seam edge if your fabric does not ravel easily. I recommend finishing your seam with any of the following finishing techniques

Straight stitched seam with pinked edge. Pinking shears are a quick easy way to prevent fabric from ravelling if your fabric is not easy to ravel. The photo on the right shows a safety stitch between the seam and the pinked edge. This gives a little more security for the seam.

If you have a serger , you can use it to serge the edges of a straight stitch seam, then steam iron the seam open.This is a good way to prevent bulk in some garments and projects. You can also press to one side if you prefer.

As well, you can use this seam when you want to leave room for growth in a garment. An example would be in the side seam of a skirt for a child.

A good seam, used for denim fabric and other woven fabrics to give extra strength to stress areas like the inner thigh of jeans. Flat felled seams are also used for decorative interest.

Sew your straight stitch seam. Trim off 3/8" of one side of the seam.

The French seam is best suited for sheer fabrics. Your seam stitches will not show and it is clean and professional.

Sew a straight seam with wrong sides of fabric together and right side of fabric showing, 2/8" from the fabric edge.

There are a few different types of stretch stitches you can do on a regular sewing machine , depending on the type of machine you have.

A triple stitch is good for sewing knits and I would use this stitch in stress areas such as in the crotch area or under the arm, if you do not have a serger.

Another alternative to a serged seam is the stretch stitch. (this is what my machine calls this stitch.) Again, you would use this for any of the stretch fabrics. This fabric is a spandex knit. I used a stretch stitch here and notice that you will have to trim your own seam allowance, unlike the serger that has a built in knife that trims and sews the seam stitches all in one. In any case the stretch stitch is a good alternative for stretch knit fabrics.